Words: Lisa Vandivort
Photographs: Matthew Vandivort

I have been intrigued by Japan’s culture since I was left out of a family vacation there in the summer of 2002. This was at a point in time when I was just starting to develop a palate for sushi beyond California rolls, but instead of partaking in the sights and sounds of Japan I was banished to continue a summer college program that I was attending. Making matters worse, Lost In Translation was released a year later - piquing my (and many Americans) interest in a country that is so different from our own in so many ways. In years that followed I devoured Bourdain’s excursions through Tokyo, insuring that Japan remained near the top of my ‘to visit’ list.

In short, visiting Japan was a long time in the wanting, but the stars finally lined up for a visit late last year - in fact our final night in Japan would be New Year’s Eve 2018. Given years of observing Japanese culture from afar, our expectations for the food, the sights, and the experience were very high. And Japan did not disappoint in the slightest.

Time constraints meant we had to narrow down our list of destinations in country, sticking to the ‘first-visit’ mainstays of Tokyo and Kyoto with a few day trips thrown in along the way. This itinerary, as concentrated as it may have been, left a wonderful flavor in our months - also meant literally - with a deep desire to see more of the country, including some of the more emotionally raw and more off the beaten path sights. Our schedule was truly non-stop - relying on public transportation and with an unyielding desire to explore, we averaged 18 miles of walking across in each of the ten full days that we were in Japan, which also meant we were able to eat nearly everything in sight.

At the end of the day, it was a trip that is difficult to put in words that are eloquent enough to capture the journey - Japan is a country that is best experienced firsthand through the sights, sounds, smells, and most important tastes. I cannot convey the latter three via photographs, but we will attempt to summarize the first with a two part photo essay. The first covers our time in Tokyo - a handful of days that convinced us that we absolutely have to return to Japan again in the future.

Some favorite sights, sounds, smells and tastes from Tokyo:

Shinjuku Gyoen National Gardens - specifically the Japanese gardens and the greenhouse

Shibuya Scramble - made famous in Lost in Translation but a sensory visit for obvious reasons, best seen at night

Tsukiji Outer Market - though the tuna auction and market moved to a more sterile venue, the traditional outer market filled with vendors selling all sorts of fresh seafood still stands and is a must for an early morning exploration, without the crazy early wakeup call

Robot Restaurant - yes, its touristy and yes, you should still see it. You would be hard pressed to not spend the 90 minute show laughing wondering what the heck is going on yet being utterly entertained

Sensoji Temple - visit near golden hour if you can for its great lighting and get a fortune for your future, plus check out the nearby shops including some very traditional knife shops

Omakase - it would be tough to visit without getting a tour of the country’s best sushi from one of many great sushi chefs. We visited Yasuda which was helpful to be able to get everything explained in English and though most of the clientele was English speaking, it was a wonderful meal and entertaining dinner

Kokekokko - off the tourist track yakitori spot in the basement of a uniqlo store right in shinjuku. Go with the set meals and watch the chefs meticulously cook you all parts of the chicken

Ramen - oh the ramen. Especially when visiting in the winter, these bowls of deliciousness will warm your soul. It’s always fun to order by vending machine and try and figure out what exactly you just ordered. We particularly loved the garlic ramen at a small spot we found by chance on our first night in Tokyo called Ramen Restaurant in Shibuya and the beef mazamen with egg and the coconut miso ramen at Noodle Stand Tokyo in Shinjuku right near Harajuku street.

Food and drink tour in Ueno - an Airbnb tour with host Akira who showed us around the more local nightlife scene of Ueno including sampling hoppy beer and super local spot where we sampled lots of meat skewers from all parts of the animal.